"Adventures of King Prawn"
Travelogue of Bali, Malaysia,
Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Mexico
October/95
10/15/95
Is extensive traveling nothing more than an escape? If it is, is that
wrong? Is anything wrong? Suddenly, everything has been rendered
neutral. No highs or lows. No matter what the environment, Paul
remains Paul. So, has anything changed? Well, yes. Facing a clean
palette of people and situations, I’m not reminded of who it is that
I’m supposed to be. I can be anyone I want. The reflections are fresh.
Now I see interesting people, versed in culture, who are brave enough
to forge out into the world seeking experience.
Today, Gayle and I went to see a Balian (the Balinese version of a witch
doctor, or white magic healer) named Tsokorda Rai. Though it took some
time for the bemo driver to locate his house, it was well worth the
trip. Tsokorda’s new wife, in her twenties, pregnant with their latest
child, led us in. Tsokorda was in his sixties, and had a cigarette
dangling from his mouth (how good it is to discard many of the western
ideas of what a health practitioner should look like!). His treatment
area was outside, under a thatched roof. Numerous patients were
cross-legged on the floor. Some were waiting to see Tsokorda, some
were accompanying the patients, some just seemed to be there. Tsokorda
had a patient sit at his feet, facing away from him, and activated
various accupressure points. From the expression on the patient’s
face, this treatment was painful. On occasion, Tsokorda would chew
various herbs and spices (which were growing on the compound) and then
spit the mixture on the head or back of the person he was treating. At
one point, he mixed a large bowl full of ingredients which he strained
off into a glass. The patient was then asked to forcefully snort the
dark liquid. He did, and it just about knocked him over. As he treated
patients, Tsokorda continuously explained his procedures, or what the
patient need do. Some patients later, Tsokorda motioned for Gayle to
sit at his feet. He sprayed some masticated goo on her face and back
and performed some chiropractic adjustments. That was it. It was my
turn. As I sat at the Balian’s feet, he did some accupressure on my
shoulders and then instructed me to lay on my back. Taking a small
stick from the ground, he began to push it into the small toe on my
left foot. The pain it produced was indescribable. He said that this
represented the kidney, that I think too much, and that I must
integrate my chakras. (Right, is that all?) To lessen the pain on my
toe, he suggested I focus both eyes on one ear; to meditate on the ear
and nothing else. I did, and the additional stabs were less painful.
He continued, saying that it was important for me, for my life, to do
nothing for a while, that I was fine and needed no therapy other than
to relax.
As Gayle and I took the bemo home, I thought about the number of times
I’ve been told to do nothing in the last few months. Another recurring
concept has been that of the integration of the chakras. Tsokorda said
I needed to balance my chakras (as if I need to be told this!) in
order to find clarity. (This brought back memories of Hawaii, where a
pain in my right knee almost incapacitated me. I found that I was
leaning to my right, favoring the injured knee. I became aware of how
it felt normal to favor the knee. Had someone not brought it to my
attention, I would probably still be walking that way today. But that
moment opened my eyes, and everything has begun to change as a
result.) I forced myself to be conscious of the way I walk, drive,
talk, and perform the activities of a day. Though I usually drive with
my left hand, I started driving with my right. When laying on my back,
in bed, I would always lift my left knee, and lean to the right. Now I
catch myself doing that and lift my right knee, instead. When speaking
with people I used to always look into their left eye. I now focus on
the right. I’m hoping that this conscious approach toward balancing my
physical actions will integrate itself into my inner process. I’ve
always known that I live too much inside my head, and that it is
important to epress from the heart. I’ve been using my left brain too
much. That’s a fact. It’s time to give the right brain some time.
10/20/95
Interesting that I should be going through the process I’ve been going
through lately; that is, the one dealing with left and right. Gayle
had told me that she is an instructor in the Alexander method; a
healing therapy I’d heard of but knew little about. Today, she gave me
what is called a “lesson” or “session” in the Alexander technique. The
technique deals with realigning the body. I laid on the ground (a
table would have suited both of us much better) and she made slight
adjustments to the positioning of my head, torso, and limbs. This was
unlike massage or acupressure. It was more a gentle nudging of the
body, reminding it of where it used to be, but had forgotten through
bad habits, accidents, and trauma. I found the work very, very
powerful-yet subtle-and look forward to having more lessons with an
Alexander instructor.
10/21/95
Tonight, I went to a tremendous Kecak performance. But there was a
non-stop stream of people getting up to take flash photographs, and
two children who talked, screamed, and played throughout the show.
This reminded me of my time in Kauai where, even in Kalalau,
helicopters buzzed overhead every fifteen to twenty minutes. It bugs
me. I begin thinking that there really is no paradise. That no matter
how distant my travel destination, there will always be the
encroachment of some bothersome element. I wish I could block out the
negative and only see the positive. So far, that’s not the case.
10/23/95
I awoke at six, as I have been doing for some time now, and went for a
long morning swim. The ocean was like glass. The perfect temperature;
not too cold, not too hot. Later, I chartered a boat and went out to
the middle of the ocean (well, certainly not the middle, but out there
somewhere) and snorkeled on two different reefs. The coral was
abundant and diverse, breathing and swaying with the current. A living
organism. Thousands of fish of different varieties surrounded me and
feasted on the plankton. What a feeling to be amidst nature’s
creatures, watching them in their environment and, hopefully, not
interrupting their daily routine. And what irony that I would return
to the bungalows and have fish for lunch.
10/28/95
I’ve been sensing that “I’m done with this” feeling lately. Like a
relationship that dissolves once the preliminary masks have been shed.
Now I see the another face of Bali. The tourist is simply a means of
generating income. Humanity is reduced to commerce. I’m ready for new
textures. (Ironic I should be writing the lyrics to a song called
“Wherever You Go, There You Are.)
The rainy season has begun, taking away the simple pleasure of sitting by
the pool doing nothing. All the paddies and paths are flooded. I’ve
written enough. The power is out, the fan has stopped functioning, the
heat is oppresive, and the powerbook battery is low...I’m outta here!
10/30/95
Experiencing an earthquake in Pemuteran (northern Bali) and seeing
numerous automotive accidents has had a strange effect on me. I’m
trying to understand what it means; why I must face death-and near
death-so often. Is my old self dying?
The two minor accidents I’ve had while staying in Bali have been to my
left leg. Perhaps it’s a coincidence, perhaps not. Am I thinking too
much again? Or is my linear, logical, cerebral side finally being
forced to minimize its exertion on my being? The right side of my neck
has been sore for almost two weeks. Is this the result of the body
work I’ve received. Or am I activating my emotional side and forcing
the body to adjusting accordingly? Maybe, after all is said and done,
it really is sore muscles, and my musings nothing more than
intellectual, metaphysical masturbation.
>> Next
on "Adventures of King Prawn"
|
Writings
